Step 1: The idea 💡
Before rushing headlong into the development of yet another t-shirt, we wanted to ensure the need and interest in the product among our community of experienced trail runners. It could not be easier ! We simply asked you about our co-creation group.
Co-creation of the product brief
With the idea in mind, you've been asking us for a while now for a t-shirt for your (non-negligible) daily adventures to wear without moderation at work, after a race or on the weekend. We were therefore able to collect more than 300 responses! In short, here is what came out:
- More than 80% of you wear t-shirts all year round, almost every day (an average of 6 days/7).
- For washing habits, half of you send it directly to the washing machine once worn. For others, it's olfactory control and ventilation to carry it over a second time.
- THE favorite t-shirt lasts 5 to 8 years for 40% of Internet users. For 30%, it is over a period of more than 8 years! 😱
- We also wanted to get your opinion on the overall volume of the ideal t-shirt. This will have a regular fit: neither too wide nor too narrow, the best balance for increased comfort without looking like a potato sack 😅
Identifying key points
We will retain 3 categories of criteria:
- eco-responsibility : how to do the right things?
- sustainability : how to make things more durable over time?
- design : what are the details that make us love a product for a long time?
These avenues are the most important levers that we have been able to identify and on which we have put all our efforts.
Step 2: solution research and development ⚙
➡ The physical envelope
The physical envelope corresponds to what we can see and touch.
The material
The constraints of this t-shirt are different from those of a trail jersey. Usually, we put our outfits to the test, facing extreme constraints (those of our sport ⚡) in terms of weather, perspiration, friction with a bag or improvised clearing, using synthetic technical textiles.. Here, we have focused our research on a natural material with suitable properties and maximum comfort ☁.
To be pleasant to wear on a daily basis, the material of the t-shirt must be soft, supple, fairly stretchy, protective, absorb moisture and limit odors. It must also be durable over time and retain its properties: remaining soft over time, not deforming, tearing or pilling.
We looked for materials from our current suppliers and contacted new ones, focusing on the European area. Our brief? A biodegradable, durable, comfortable and organic material, with a weight of between 180 to 220g/m² (by comparison, a light “disposable” fast fashion t-shirt can have a weight of around 140g/m²).
After collecting more than 100 different references in terms of composition, weight or type of weaving/knitting, 7 were preselected based on their composition (and raw material origin), softness, comfort, density (opacity). To verify the notion of durability, we have implemented a washing aging protocol.
After collecting more than 100 references with different weights or type of weaving/knitting, 7 were preselected based on their composition (and raw material origin), softness, comfort, density (opacity). To verify the notion of durability, we have implemented a washing aging protocol.
In total, 10 samples: 7 supplier references and 3 control samples of t-shirts placed on the market incorporating an eco-responsible dimension.
The testing process:
- Standard sample size 10*10 to be able to compare shrinkage and stability after several washes
- Machine wash at maximum temperature 90°C (4 hour cycle) maximum spin at 1200rpm
- Tumble dry max temperature
- Repeat the cycle 3 times
Observation: some fabrics have rolled, frayed on the sides or become deformed. We can therefore deduce that they are not very stable over time.
This fabric is knitted by FEINJERSEY in Austria with 100% organic cotton yarn certified Oeko-Tex and GOTS (level 1). Grown in Turkey, this premium cotton species has long filaments that make the fiber stronger and more durable.
The cup
You and we love trail running. We therefore wanted to instill the trail spirit by creating clothing that we can wear every day, all the time, outside of our outings. Durable clothing is clothing that we never tire of and that we enjoy wearing no matter the months or years that pass by.
The cut and color should be as timeless as possible. For example, a very specific color that stands out will tend to please us enormously for a very short period of time. A more neutral color will also have the advantage of going easily with everything. But be careful, neutral does not mean hollow! It would be a shame to develop an ordinary t-shirt that could be found on anyone, without personality.
Once the overall fit of the product is complete, it’s time for the prototyping phase carried out by Petratex. After a few back and forths to adjust the armhole for more comfort and various tests to rework the neckline so that it sits well on the neck and prevents it from gaping or buckling, here we are with a great t-shirt !
➡ The spiritual heart
The spiritual heart corresponds to our interpretation, our emotions, our memories and our memory.
Blade
A refined t-shirt with soul, that’s what we want. We wanted it to carry our convictions (in terms of transparency and eco-responsibility), without forgetting the human aspect. Who better than an artist to, through their creativity, bring life to a time when artificial intelligence is making its mark in all areas?
Sensation,
Arthur Rimbaud, March 1870
Prickled by the wheat, treading on the small grass:
Dreamer, I will feel the freshness at my feet.
I let the wind bathe my bare head.
But infinite love will rise in my soul,
And I will go far, far away, like a gypsy,
By Nature, - happy as with a woman.
These verses affect us a lot as trail runners. It refers to our senses, our sensations and what reconnects us to nature. Helped by this poem, we switched to a universe of poetic trail running, connected to our senses and to the nature that surrounds us, in an intimate and positive way.
Making memories, emotions and sensations resonate through the artist's work while allowing him his share of creativity in the composition, graphic style and universe is truly fascinating.
Working with an artist who shares our values and ideals was obvious. We fell in love with the world of illustrator Mona Leu-Leu to whom we entrusted this project.
To guide the graphic research, we looked at who we were as a brand and individuals , to draw up a graphic brief.
In her graphic research, Mona wanted to express the sensation of speed (which differentiates hiking from trail running), lightness and movement, in nature. The tones are warm with ochres and reminiscent of the colors of the end of the day. They are contrasted with blue tones which bring dynamics and energy.
After several discussions and proposals, here is our final interpretation of a beautiful summer evening, to enjoy the outdoors.
The composition is dynamic and draws us into this colorful universe, like an invitation to travel outside and join the character in his frantic race. The use of traditional techniques with gouache and brushes gives us a vibrant and spontaneous rendering.
Once the illustration was completed, we were able to carry out printing tests in order to choose the most suitable technique for a rendering that was most faithful to the original and durable 😉
Tech at the service of eco-responsibility 🖥
With a view to transparency and awareness of the value of fair things, we have thought about a solution which highlights our convictions and our actions: Wise labels .
We then asked our community: how can we bring more transparency and traceability to our products?
When we summarize the feedback we received, our community showed particular interest in finding out more about each stage of development and the tests carried out (prototypes, etc.). The creation of a space bringing together all product traceability information, where it would be possible to compare products with each other (environmental footprint, CO² emissions, water consumption, etc.) was also mentioned on several occasions. , in the form of a QR code directly on the product.
For our part, we also had an issue to resolve, on the traceability of our products from production to the final customer(s), in order to be able to associate a unique product with a production chain and be able to provide “after-sales service” over a period of 10 years. The key idea of Wise Labels is to view the product as a service, rather than a consumable good. We are redefining the way of consuming: a simple t-shirt is no longer considered a consumable good, but as a durable product accompanied by services.
For what ? Because the eco-responsibility of a product is manifested as much in its production as in its lifespan. This is why today, it is necessary, even essential, to offer a service that accompanies the product.
This innovative label allows us to push transparency to its peak: the information contained is precise and detailed (place of production of the raw material, place of manufacture, production number, history of the product). By identifying each product uniquely, Wise Labels act like real logbooks.
Behind each Wise Label there is an NFC chip, associated with a unique digital object (NFT). All product information is guaranteed and secured by Blockchain. For only 8g of CO2eq, the traceability information specific to each product is engraved in stone for the whole world to see. The information on each product is therefore accessible at any time and by anyone by scanning the Wise Label with their mobile phone.
Once acquired by its owner, the product is guaranteed for 10 years thanks to a repair service. A classic t-shirt would lose this warranty if sold second hand. This is not the case thanks to Wise Labels. Products equipped with it are designed as a form of heritage and not as a consumer good.
To join the movement, click here !