Roaming on the GR34 from Lannion to Morlaix.

175 km - 3,500D+ in 4 days

Ah! The Breton flag. Impossible to miss during the various trail races: Attached to the hydration pack, discreetly displayed on the socks, printed on the cap or covering the entire t-shirt... Proof that Brittany is a real land of trail runners and trail! So for this new itinerary we decided to reverse the roles: it's up to us to go and display our colors on the sublime customs trails.

From Lannion to Morlaix, 175 km and 3,500D+, 1.6 kilos on the back and 4 days running along the cliffs, with the ocean as far as the eye can see, the rocks sculpted by the wind and the golden lights of autumn... Let's go for a big bowl of salty change of scenery in the heart of Brittany.

Day 1: From Lannion to Ploumanac'h - 30 km - 350D+

 

To start this trip, it took us only 3h30 by train from Paris to reach Lannion station in the middle of the afternoon. Easy to access, the perfect place to start this Breton adventure. Lannion is famous for its historical heritage and its half-timbered houses. A stop at the Vieux Pont Saint-Christophe and in the cobbled streets of the center adds a picturesque touch right at the beginning of the adventure.

As soon as you leave the station, you head due north to immediately pick up the GR34 link (very well marked) which follows an old railway line. We start with 14 kilometers in the heart of the Breton bocages between wooded landscapes and crossing small housing estates. Mostly on a passable path, this section allows us to quietly stretch our legs after several hours of train👌

We pick up the GR34 at Pont ar Sauz and head off to Perros-Guirec via the Sentier des Douaniers and the famous Pink Granite Coast with its astonishingly shaped rocks and characteristic pink colour. Here, we immerse ourselves in the Breton atmosphere. Passing by the Pointe du Château. We go along the beaches of Trestraou (one of the most beautiful white sand beaches) and Trestignel, almost deserted at this time of year. We feel privileged, alone facing the ocean on this magnificent section of the GR34 overlooking the sea.

 

The Mean Ruz lighthouse in Ploumanac'h marks the apotheosis of this first stage 🌅. The pink granite rocks are sublimated by the autumn light! 6:15 p.m. end of the day in beauty by reaching Ploumanac'h. We join the Rochers hotel, where we are very well received, to recover our room, a little laundry by hand, a shower before being able to finally enjoy fresh oysters in their famous restaurant 🤤

 

Day 2: Ploumanac'h - Lannion via Île Grande - 42 km, 450D+

After a good night, we leave Ploumanac'h for a big day of 42 km and 650 D+, one of the most intense of the journey but also one of the most beautiful through wild and hyper-contrasting landscapes.

We first follow the coast, passing through Trégastel and its beaches at low tide. Notably Coz-Pors, almost all to ourselves.

We continue to Île Grande under a very veiled autumn sky but which gives an end-of-the-world atmosphere so characteristic of the landscape. This island is connected to the continent by a causeway and surrounded by wild coves where you can only hear the wind and the birds 🐦. The island is a true haven of peace in autumn, conducive to contemplation. You can go around it. In this case, you have to count 6 additional kilometers.

We continue on the route with always this very special atmosphere of low tide with the boats lying on their sides before reaching Trébeurden, a village with a very Breton character with its sublime granite houses and their blue shutters. Km 30. Perfect spot for a “so Breton” lunch break: we opt for the crêperie Le Voile where we were able to savor the traditional Breton pancake.

Time for a digestive run towards Lannion. We take out our sunglasses and follow the ocean as closely as possible before going back up to join the Léguer, a coastal river that looks like small fjords, which we go up to our evening stop in Lannion for a restorative shower-aperitif-meal-sleep combo! (We had dinner at the crêperie Le Moulin Vert, an address recommended by the Tourist Office. Their specialty: gratin crêpes, perfect for recharging the batteries.)

Day 3: Lannion - Locquirec via Trédrez-Locquémeau - 31 km, 500D+

For this third stage, Julien Le Bihan, a Breton trail runner friend, joined us to share a good stretch of trail together. What better way to discover a region than a local trail runner with the Breton flag on his socks 😅? A big thank you to him for this beautiful moment shared 🙏

Like the first day, we leave Lannion again but this time to the west. Heading for Locquirec! Before, we pass by the Pointe du Yaudet, full of history with its Celtic remains and its Notre-Dame du Yaudet church, an emblematic site not to be missed if you come to run in the area. The views are magnificent.

We reach the Pointe de Dourven which offers spectacular views of the cliffs. We go into the paths lined with cliffs, the coast becomes more rugged, links climbs and descents to Trédrez-Locquémeau with its charming little port. It is time to refuel on the sunny terrace of the Petit Michel in Saint-Michel-en-Grève.

We resume our best stride under a radiant sun which illuminates the coast and offers us breathtaking views. On Julien's advice we make some beautiful passages on the sand still very wet during low tide. Not the same as the mud of Veyrier in Annecy but it sticks just as much to the shoes 😅

We continue towards Locquirec, a peaceful village in this season where a restful night with the ocean as a backdrop awaits us at the Escale, a charming guest house. There is a quiet atmosphere, far from the summer hustle and bustle, ideal for recharging your batteries before the last day. Make way for the risotto at Chez Kanailles, an address not to be missed for lovers of good Breton cuisine and bedtime.

Day 4: From Locquirec to Morlaix (42 km, 450 D+)

Last stage with Morlaix on the horizon. The original route indicated more than 50km but we adapted our itinerary so as not to miss the return train.

This last day is spent under a slightly more overcast sky. We follow the GR34 for 10 km to the beach of Vilin Izella. This is where we cut across the land to Plougasnou. We pick up the coastal path south of Pointe de Primel.

A quick stop at the Cairn de Barnenez, a prehistoric site perched on top of a beautiful promontory at the entrance to the harbor of Morlaix.

Entering the bay, arriving in Morlaix with its charming little port and half-timbered houses… this section was an unforgettable moment. A gentle return to civilization. In the off-season, the town is calm and peaceful. A stroll through the streets allows you to end this journey on a cultural and picturesque note.

End of the journey at the station to take the train back to Paris. Hearts filled with memories and the promise of returning to explore new sections of the GR34.

 

Review of our adventure: Why do the GR34 in autumn?

We loved walking the GR34 in the fall. The trails were deserted, the accommodations open all year round allowed us to enjoy good addresses, and the landscapes, less frequented, had an almost intimate atmosphere. This trip made us want to discover more of Brittany, and why not walk other parts of this 2000 km GR!

PHYSICAL CONDITIONS:

The course is extremely smooth with lots of climbs. You still need good running skills. It's a bit of a challenge for the mountaineers that we are, used to walking fast over 1000m of D+, not being in grip all the way on alternating climbs and descents of 5m of D+. Leave the poles at home, the terrain is flat enough not to need them.

WISE HARDWARE

• Sherpa Max Bag
• 2 500 ml flasks
• Blackshell – rain jacket
• Sigmashell – Windbreaker
• Neck circumference – head circumference
• Dry pouch – Packaging pouch
• FKT pant – Roaming pants
• MC Ultra T-shirt
• 2 ML T-shirts
• Blacknorak – Roaming Warm Layer

OUT OF WISE MATERIAL

• Frontal – with spare battery
• Sunglasses
• Mini Toothbrush – Mini Hairbrush
• Nok Cream - Homeoplasmine
• Headphone and mobile phone cable
• Portable battery
• food for 4 days

 

Weather and Tides: Prepare for the Elements

The Breton coast requires a good knowledge of local specificities, particularly in terms of weather and tides.

The weather in Brittany is changeable : it is common to have rapid alternations between rain, clear spells and wind. Providing clothing suitable for bad weather, in particular waterproof and breathable layers, is essential to stay comfortable throughout the trip.

Tides are another element that should not be overlooked . The Breton coasts have some of the largest tidal ranges in Europe, which means that some sections of the trail can be impassable at high tide, especially near beaches and narrow coastal passages. Before setting off, it is advisable to check the tide times on a specialist site (such as SHOM or the Météo France app), in order to plan critical passages at low tide. This adds a unique dimension to the adventure, as nature and the landscape change with the tides!

ACKNOWLEDGMENTS:

Trail trace, Cécile Lefébvre

Lannion Tourist Office

Perros-Guirec Tourist Office

Locquirec Tourist Office